Chainaya – Moscow

Many people prefer St. Petersburg over Moscow. Well I don’t. This for many reasons. One of them is the cocktails, what else? One might say, Moscow & Cocktails, really? Yeah really! Well there are not many places that serve world class cocktails but at least there are 2 bars that made it to the top 50. Well don’t get me wrong, sometimes I ask myself how a bar ends up being in the top 50 at all but in general one can admit if they end up in there somewhere they must at least do a few things right.

In the case of Chainaya they do a lot of things right. You would also think when you add up Moscow, cocktails and price levels, one ends up paying 30-40 USD for a cocktails in a small exclusive place like this. Not at all. Drinks are all around 15 USD which is reasonable for the city and especially for the quality. When I read about it the first time I knew I had to visit. First of all I had to find it as I read its not so easy to locate. When I went the first time there was nothing on Google maps but I had the address which brought me at least to the vicinity of the bar. Being outside at the corner of the street there was only a Kebab store and I was trying to ask for the way. The guy just gave me some answer in Russian which did not help. I asked another person, all I got was a brief Russian answer that probably meant: “No idea”. Another person arrived at the side of the street in a mini cooper, got out, took his skateboard out of the trunk and wanted to walk away. I thought there is good chance he might speak some English. I asked if he knew Chainaya bar, to my surprise he answered in a good English: “You are lucky my friend, I am just heading there”. Through a dirty alley into a dark courtyard and in the furthers most dirtiest corner of the courtyard, yes there are some rats, you find a dimly lit door and a bell besides. A real speakeasy! You are lucky if you get in, as there are not many spaces. It used to be a Chinese teahouse with some Chinese food but they turned the place into a very cosy cocktail place that still serves excellent Chinese food. All prepared in a tiny corner. The small dishes that come out really help you through all the cocktails that you want to taste. When you sit at the bar which just has around 6-7 places you think that you are in China somewhere, in a small tea place as its designed like a little hut with a roof that comes down towards the bar.

That little design feature gives a cosy feel to the place. A small passage leads to another room where a few tables are placed and you can enjoy a drink more privately. Obviously though, the magic happens at the bar. With jazz melodies in the background the drinks are composed. The menu matches the theme of the bar, a good amount of spices and infusions find the way on the carefully and well executed drinks menu. You also find teas if you need to calm down a bit after a few cocktails. The spirits behind the bar are finely selected and one is surprised to find such a variety in Moscow. The bartenders, who are a bit dressed like chefs, are very knowledgeable and well travelled and brought some nice souvenirs from different places in the world and I guess with money everything is obtainable in this city anyway. The menu changes from time to time and some classics stay on. When I went the first time I had a drink called Chainarac which was not on the menu the second time but I still asked the bartender and they were able to do it. A classic drink served with a big ice cube in a tumbler in the direction of an Old fashioned that used a tea syrup. A very nice cocktail indeed. Another composition that I got which was not on the menu was a Rum Martinez with a twist which was a perfectly executed recipe of Aged Rum, Gran Lusso, Antica Formula, Maraschino, Orange bitter and Angostura bitter. To round off the evening I opted for a Guyana Gold, a cocktail containing Rum, PX Sherry and chocolate bitter. There is a taste for everybody on the menu and if you think you do not find anything, the bartenders are more than happy to help you with a idea of their own. One of my favourite bars in the world in a very vibrant, controversial and buzzing city.

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